India has been in the grip of a hotter-than-normal summer, with a heatwave that caused temperatures to exceed 40°C to 45°C in many regions in April and May. You can feel it on your skin: fatigue, irritation and unexpected sensitivity.
“I definitely see a shift,” says Dr Madhuri Agarwal, founder and medical director of Yavana Aesthetics Clinic, Mumbai. “Sensitive skin issues and barrier damage are increasing. Pigmentation that was once easily treatable is now more persistent, and tanning despite sunscreen use is common.” She also notes an increase in early signs of photoaging and sun-induced conditions, such as polymorphous light eruption (PMLE), which can cause a delayed, itchy, or burning rash, usually red bumps, patches, or blisters on the skin.
Skin under threat
Beyond the visible heat lies ultraviolet radiation, easier to underestimate, but biologically far more consequential. The UV Index (UVI) measures the intensity of ultraviolet radiation reaching the Earth’s surface. At lower levels (0–2), exposure is minimal. As the index rises beyond 8, even brief unprotected exposure can cause damage. The World Health Organization classifies a UVI of 11 or higher as “extreme risk”, where skin damage can begin within 10–15 minutes. Alarmingly, in April, Bengaluru recorded an extreme UV index of 13, according to reports. Chennai and Mumbai routinely recorded UV Index levels of 11–13, according to the The Weather & Radar and The Weather Network pages, real-time UV Index trackers.
“The country’s high UV Index is largely driven by geography, with ozone dynamics, local environmental conditions and climate change playing supporting roles,” says Anukriti Sharma, environmental scientist and member of the IUCN Commission on Education and Communication, a global network of volunteer experts who use strategic communication and education to inspire action for Nature conservation.
In India, the bigger skin story is UVA. A sunscreen conversation that begins and ends with SPF is already outdated
| Photo Credit:
Catherine Falls Commercial
Located close to the equator, India experiences intense sunlight and long summers. “When the sun is high in the sky, ultraviolet radiation travels through a shorter atmospheric path, allowing more of it to reach the surface,” says Anukriti.Interestingly, she notes that in highly polluted cities, airborne particles can partially block them, acting like a weak ‘atmospheric sunscreen.’
The UV radiation reaching Earth primarily consists of UVA and UVB rays (high-energy ultraviolet radiation from the sun). While the ozone layer blocks most UVB, nearly 95% of UVA penetrates through. UVA also passes through glass and remains relatively constant year-round. UVB causes sunburn, but UVA penetrates deeper, contributing to DNA damage, pigmentation and premature ageing.
“Melanin [the natural pigment that gives colour to our skin, hair and eyes] offers some natural protection, but it is not a substitute for sunscreen,” says Mumbai-based cosmetic dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad. “People often associate sun damage only with tanning, but melasma, hyperpigmentation, blotchy skin and premature collagen breakdown are all signs.”
“In India, UVA is the larger concern,” says Dr Agarwal. “We tan easily because we have larger melanosomes. Over time, that pigment builds up; this is cumulative UV damage.”
Applying sun cream
| Photo Credit:
mihailomilovanovic
The SPF obsession
SPF has become shorthand for sun protection. It measures defence against UVB rays, and while higher numbers offer greater protection, the gains plateau beyond a point. SPF 50, for instance, blocks around 97% of UVB.
“In India, the bigger skin story is UVA. A sunscreen conversation that begins and ends with SPF is already outdated,” says Prachi Bhandari, co-founder of Aminu, a skincare brand at the cusp of creating multi-functional, innovative formulas for the modern-day Indian consumer. This is where the PA++++ rating — developed in Japan — matters. The more “+” signs, the stronger the UVA protection.
Dr Sharad points to visible light and blue light exposure from prolonged screen time as growing concerns, “Visible daylight itself can stimulate melanocytes [cells in the body responsible for producing melanin] and trigger excess production,” she says. “Tinted sunscreens containing iron oxides can offer additional protection against pigmentation triggered by visible light exposure.”
Sunscreen may now be non-negotiable in skincare, but usage habits remain inconsistent. According to Mintel’s Global New Products Database, sunscreen launches in India rose by 235% between 2020 and 2025. Yet Mintel research from 2024 found that only 14% of Indian adults had used sunscreen in the previous year.
“I don’t blame the sunscreen itself, but how it’s used,” says Dr Agarwal.
The two-finger rule for the face is a useful guideline (plus one for the neck), with reapplication especially important if time is spent outdoors, sweating or spending long hours near windows or screens. And, staying consistent. “People assume sunscreen is only necessary at the beach or during peak summer,” says Dr Sharad. “But even short commutes, sitting near large windows or early morning walks can expose the skin to significant UVA and visible light.”
Keeping up with UV
The challenge isn’t only behavioural. Experts also point to the lack of consistent testing and benchmarking standards in India. “If a sunscreen formula isn’t stable, you’re essentially applying a moisturiser,” says Dr Agarwal. Prachi adds that there is still limited independent photobiological research on Indian skin types to guide formulations.
A growing awareness is influencing how sunscreens are being developed. New-generation filters such as Tinosorb and Mexoryl are designed to offer broader, more stable protection against UV and visible light without degrading as quickly in sunlight.
Sunscreen preferences are also shifting towards lighter, more cosmetically elegant formulations that people are willing to wear consistently in hot, humid weather. Pharmacy staples such as UV Doux, Photostable and La Shield remain popular for their lightweight gel textures, while brands like La Roche-Posay, ISDIN and Eucerin continue to feature prominently in dermatologist recommendations for their stronger UVA protection and invisible finishes that layer comfortably under makeup.
A woman on vacation enjoys a moment on a beach
| Photo Credit:
Catherine Falls Commercial
Homegrown brands are also rethinking texture and wearability — two major barriers to sunscreen adoption in India. Aminu’s Milky Mineral sunscreen focuses on “environmental defence”, targeting UV exposure, pollution, blue light and oxidative stress in a lightweight formula built around non-nano zinc oxide.
Still, sunscreen alone is not enough. Dr Sharad cautions against over-exfoliation and aggressive skincare routines, “overusing AHAs or BHAs, scrubs and exfoliants can weaken the skin barrier and increase inflammation and hyperpigmentation,” she says, and recommends including antioxidants such as vitamin C, E and ferulic acid to maintain barrier health and reduce oxidative stress.
Aminu’s Milky Mineral sunscreen
| Photo Credit:
Aminu/Instagram
Dr Agarwal suggests dermatologist-guided oral antioxidants to help combat free radical damage. “They reduce inflammation and slow pathways linked to ageing and collagen breakdown,” she says. Treatments have evolved, too. “Earlier, lasers and peels simply cleaned up damage. Now the focus is regeneration — repairing the skin barrier, improving tissue health and even addressing DNA-level damage.”
The future of sun care may lie not in chasing ever-higher SPF numbers, but in rethinking how we live with the sun altogether, and, of course, remembering to reapply.
Homegrown options
D’you’s unkissed sunscreen uses capsule technology and hybrid filters combined with K-beauty-inspired ingredients like Irish moss extract, ferments and panthenol, creating a serum-like texture that feels nearly weightless on the skin.
Brands such as Sunscoop are encouraging reapplication through formats like sprays and invisible gels, while SkinInspired is focusing on barrier-safe formulations for sensitive skin.
